Barnaby gets a spine

I wrapped the book in plastic, and glued the new spine liner with false raised bands (same dimensions as the original remnant) to the plastic. Many steps left undescribed.

Barnaby_R

Here the book with new hollow, layer of thick paper pasted on and then sanded down to even out the bumps caused by the new reinforcing linen cords. The book was wrapped in plastic, new spine liner and raised bands glued to plastic, new repair calf cut using pattern.

Barnaby_S

While the dyed leather was drying, I lifted some more of the pastedown, then flattened it out.

Barnaby_U

Lifted portion folded back over white paper, showing bare board. I put mylar in here before closing the cover, so the underside of the old paper wouldn’t stick to the fly leaf.

Barnaby_T

Using a sharp knife to cut through the old leather turn in at the edge of the board. When the new spine is put on, it will be pasted underneath this lifted piece, so that the old leather covers up the new. Don’t ask how nerve-wracking it is to cut into beautiful, dry, brittle, gold-tooled leather almost 180 years old. My blood is ice! I OWN this! Plus, the book gods were kind.

Barnaby, the Prequel

I found the “before” pictures of Barnaby. Here they are.

Barnaby_A

Front Cover

Barnaby_B

Front cover, showing the remnants of late repair. Looking at this, I assume this repair leather was inserted underneath the original spine. It worked for a while, and then the rest of the original spine was lost.

Barnaby_C

Back of book, showing repair attached. Notice how the repair leather is pasted on TOP of the original boards, and only goes part way down. That’s probably because at the time that repair was made, part of the original spine was still attached. And normally the repair leather would have been put UNDER the cover leather, not on top of it.

Barnaby_D

Close up of the repair. If you look closely, you can see a piece of gold-tooled leather on top of the plain leather. I think this is a remnant of the original spine.

Barnaby_E

You can see how the repairer turned the leather in at the top. Part of the leather is dark – was the old label pasted on here?

Barnaby_F

The bookseller’s ticket is stuck inside the lower front inside cover. Myers & Co, 59 High Holborn, London, can’t make out the rest from the photo

Barnaby_G

Inside front of book.

Barnaby_I

Inside back of book. Sorry, it’s upside down.

Barnaby_J

Lovely gold tooling on the inside leather turn-ins, done with gold leaf using a decorated roll tool.

Barnaby_K

Corner shows some wear and loss of leather. Looks as if the finisher didn’t miter the corners, but just ran the roll off the end.

Barnaby_L

Inside back of book. See the plain leather folded over the decorated leather? That’s the repair leather, and it should have been tucked under the old leather, not glued on top of it.

Barnaby_M

Here the repair is being lifted off the spine. I did not dare use any water to soften the adhesive, because I feared it would blacken the old leather, so I lifted it with a scalpel. You can see that the top layer of the old leather was pulled off in the process.

Barnaby_N

A zoomed-out photo of the process. Old leather is being slowly lifted off mechanically.

Barnaby_O

Interesting. As the old leather comes off, I can see what looks like some of the original spine – the leather piece on the false raised band is probably from the original spine, along with the cardboard underneath it.

Barnaby_Q

Here I am lifting the turned-on repair leather from the original leather. The old gold tooling, which was covered up, is starting to re-emerge.

Barnaby_H

The book is now pared down to the original parts. The repair has been removed, and you can see the change in color of the spine, and the lighter leather on the cover where the top layer of calf was stripped off. Now I can begin the restoration.

Barnaby Rudge

 

Still looking for the before-before pictures. This is a work in progress: a friend’s nice old leather bound copy of Barnaby Rudge. Most of the spine was missing. All that remained was a bit of leather near the head that was not the original spine, but an older repair about half the height of the book. It was still attached to the outside top of the boards. The repair had false raised bands, and the it’s possible that the leather used to make them came from the original spine. You can see the lighter area on the cover leather where some of the patina was removed along with the repair. The repair was attached with paste, I think, and I didn’t want to risk blackening the original leather by moistening the paste, so I removed the material mechanically, and it took the top layer of cells off the leather. It’s not ideal, but it’s better than having the cover turn jet black. Some leather blackens when wet and the change is irreversible.


Barnaby_3-copy

I believe these small scraps are all that remain of the original spine. There was once some good tooling over the bands, and I will guess that the entire spine was decorated, since there is more than just a simple line below the raised band.

 

 


 

Barnaby_1-copy

 

This photo shows the edge gilding, which is on all three sides, as well as a bit of the gold tooling on the leather turn-ins. So much decoration on the insides really makes me think the spine must have been quite ornate.

 

 


DSC_0056-copy

The cover boards are still attached – barely – with the original lacing. I didn’t want to remove them. The marbled paper inside is broken at the joints, though, and needs repair. I hate to cover up that paper, so I dampened the edges of it enough gently lift a tiny bit of it off the boards on the inside. It turns out the original binder had made a bit of a wrinkle in the paper at the joint, and pasted it down over all the board edges, so I was able to tease quite a bit of it out. I colored a piece of Japanese tissue to match the dominant maroon color. The marble flyleaf was pasted to the first white endsheet for about a half an inch near the joint. I was able to also lift up the edge of this paper, attach the repair paper to the shoulder (and just barely on the first endsheet) and then paste the unfolded marble paper down on top of that. My hope is that once the book has been rebacked, there will be enough of the old marble paper left to nearly cover all the JT repair paper.


Barnaby_5-copy

This is a close-up of the inside front with a better view of the tooling of the turn-ins, and a booksellers ticket that reads “Myers & Co., 59 High Holborn, London” plus whatever is covered up by the folded up pastedown.  Sorry, the book is on another floor and I’m lazy. That’s the back side of the repair tissue. The idea is to eventually paste it down onto the bare board surface, then paste the colored paper back over the top.


 

Here are the first few pages of the book. No printing date. There is a pasted in newspaper clipping that seems old. I hope there’s enough information to identify the edition, and then perhaps I can locate an original copy and see if the decoration matches this one. That will give me an idea of what the original spine may have looked like. Whether or not I have the skill to tool a fancy spine is another matter.


Slipcase Repair

This poor thing belongs to a friend. I want to see if I can repair it. As  you can see, it has been “repaired” previously with strapping tape. Strapping tape is evil.

Slipcase_1Slipcase_2Slipcase_3Slipcase_4

The plastic layer of tape lifted off easily, as did the reinforcing fiber bundles. The adhesive had soaked into the paper, though, and left it stained and sticky.

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Copious amounts of acetone, to my surprise, removed most of the adhesive and stain. Removal of the dark stain revealed a few losses to the cover paper along the edges.

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I matched the cleaned slipcase pieces against some Japanese tissue to find the best color match. The first was too dark, the second a bit too green.I tinted the greener of the papers with dilute yellow oxide acrylic paint. 

Before going any further, I flattened out one bent, delaminating corner.

Slipcase_12

Scalpel time. The printed cover paper must be lifted up from the board, so that a strip of the tinted Japanese tissue can be inserted below it. This way, the repair paper doesn’t cover up any of the decorated paper on top.

Slipcase_13Slipcase_14

I glued the sides back together to re-form the slipcase, using the Japanese tissue to connect the different pieces together. Again, the repair paper went under the decorated paper. I was able to remove a hidden strip of the original cover paper from under the top layer, and use fragments of it to fill in missing pieces.

This seemed like a good time to also apply reinforcing Japanese paper to the inner joints. This time I had a heavy paper that was a good color match, so I didn’t need to tint it.

Slipcase_17

Next I mixed up some heavy acrylic paint to match the cover. The color of the cover actually varies, with some greener areas and some more yellow areas, so I went for a color that would harmonize with both. I colored all the exposed repair paper, which adds strength, as well as the larger worn/missing areas. A few white and gray areas also needed inpainting. Once that dried, I added dots and missing details with permanent black ink.

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Once all had cured for a bit, I applied a microcrystalline wax to the outside surface to protect the fragile paper from friction wear. The wax also helps the repair tissue to blend in with the original materials.  And here it is.

I left the images fairly large, so if you are curious  you can inspect the work in detail and find all the imperfections. Hey, they don’t call it “practicing a craft” for nothing. A whole lot of practice is still to come before I can begin to think of mastery of the craft. And if it’s all as much fun as this, I’ll never work a day in my life.